Inti Raymi in Cotacachi

In most parts parts of Ecuador and South America Inti Raymi is a celebration of the solstice and a new growing season that traces it's roots to hundreds of years ago.  Wherever the Incas had their influence, you will see it celebrated even today.  In most cases the necessary 'sacrifices' to appease and please the Incan gods have been disbanded and no longer is there actual human or animal blood shed.

www.gosouthamerica.about.com/od/perartandculture/a/IntiRaymi.htm

Not so much in Cotacachi.  Each year in Cotacachi the 'celebrants' have their own rendition of Inti Raymi.  Local legend has it that the current form of celebration in Cotacachi may go back several hundred years to a place in time where the Hatfields had bad blood with the McCoys.  In this case the Hatfields may have been located in La Calera (near Cotacachi) and the McCoys in Quiroga (also near Cotacachi).  The Hatfields stole a sacred bull from the  McCoys.  Then to add insult to injury, they ate it.  Relations have never been the same since.  Today, Cotacachi is the place where groups of indigenous converge to 're-enact' this fateful bull theft and ceremonial blood letting.  It just so happens to correlate to Inti Raymi, ostensibly that perhaps the bull theft took place during that celebration hundreds of years ago.

The 'party' starts around the day of Inti Raymi, the 24th of June, give or take a few days.  At first the participants seem to be in good cheer albeit with a little sense of future conflict with the other groups.  Most participants wear pointed hats that appear to be like a nail head.  Many of them also wear chaps.  The chaps apparently are worn to help protect their legs when they start kicking each other in their ceremonial fighting.

We have had a bird's eye view of the revelers as they have marched and stomped past our apartment on Diez de Agosto on their way back and forth from their demonstrations on the main square in Cotacachi.

When they arrive at the square the stomping march seems to become louder and fiercer.  The whistling by the participants keeps the rhythm in concert and adds to the element of a warlike group.  One by one each group stomps in cadence and on command starts to circle, typically at the corners of the square.  In the first days of Inti Raymi it is festive with many spectators seated in front of the church to watch the men of all ages parading, whistling cadence, and in general having a testosterone party.  

Rachel and I enjoyed the color and festivities also in the town square.  We had the perfect setup to watch from the doorway of a little pizzeria.  The owner's daughter captured our heart and Rachel soon had her arms around her.  The little ones here are gorgeous creatures with smiles that would melt cold steel.

A couple nights later at least two men died and several were hospitalized in the ceremonial fighting.  This is not unusual.  It is not the first time there have been fatalities.  Blood has to be spent.  There are parts of an indigenous culture we can only accept and hope some day to understand.  I'm sure the wars we wage don't make sense to them either.   Right now we just pray for the families of dead revelers.

Sig Sig

If you're in to World's Record this or that, try this Panama Hat on for style.  It's in Sig Sig Ecuador.  That's right, Panama hats are made in Ecuador!

We had a great day with Jim and Angie Barnes exploring the countryside around Sig Sig. We stepped back in time about 100 years.   Rachel and Angie scored some nice hats.   I wrote about it in Suite 101.  Please click the link below.


http://www.suite101.com/content/worlds-largest-panama-hat-in-ecuador-a383246

Playing to the Beat of Independence



Rachel's independent spirit of excitement and glee is shown early in life



There's a picture of Rachel with her brothers when she was two years of age in Lawton Oklahoma. Rachel's mouth was wide open in an expression of total glee, released from all bonds that might trouble a two year old.  I love that picture.  I think we all yearn for that release of entering into our surroundings, just stopping to smell the roses, picking up the symbols and playing to the beat of the band.  I guess that's why I married Rachel.  She smells the roses and plays the symbols. 



Rachel seizes the moment and symbols the beat of independence



November 3 was Cuenca Independence Day.  Bands played, Presidente Correa was in town to celebrate with us, vendors and artisans from all over the country were here to add color and nuance to an historic and significant event.  For those of us who live here now it is difficult to believe that Cuenca or Ecuador for that matter was ever anything but independent.  There's a spirit that goes with an independent country and an independent people.  Mark my word, the Ecuadorian spirit is alive and well and the people love their independence just like the American patriot from the US.

It strikes me about the similarities between our countries, the US and Ecuador.  Many people would cite the differences which are obviously apparent at every level, socio-economic, cultural, demographic, climatic, etc.   But let's look at core spirit and independent thinking. When the Ecuadorian people have had enough of the direction their leadership takes, they are heard.  They are heard in large numbers with an open voice.   Changes are made.   A couple years ago the American cousins of the North decided they didn't like their country's direction and voted in a massive change of political leadership and representation.  Two years later, expectations weren't met, and again the voice of the people was heard with a resulting change to the US House of Representatives.  It doesn't matter which side of the isle you sit on.  Democracy and independence is alive and well in the US and Ecuador.  Congratulations on your independence Ecuador!      

Pan Pipe Maker

Musical instrument artisans abound in Ecuador. This man has a little shop just off Parque Calderon in Cuenca. I fell in love with the music of the Andes while in the Imbabura Province in January 2010. It seems you hear the pipes most in the north. Whenever I hear them wherever I go, I stop, listen, and readjust my heart and soul.

Mozart #35 In Cuenca

Mozart #35 as performed by the Cuenca stringed symphony Friday night was an unexpected delight.  I have to thank Gringo Tree for alerting those of us who got their message of the change of time and venue for this event.  I alerted a few others and we had a respectable gringo representation in the otherwise disappointing crowd to hear this excellent production.  It seemed appropriate that I should take a hike back to the facility on Saturday to take a few snapshots of the facilities in the daylight.  I happened to be too late to get into the museum, but found these two sisters who had enjoyed the museum while it was open.  If you are considering a move or a visit to Cuenca, your cultural yearnings need not suffer.  This city loves their arts, music, and festivals and it is largely free of charge!